Sunday, May 18, 2008

A Walk In The Woods, Franconian Style

Feeding the town of Nuremberg is the Pegnitz (sounds like Pig Nits) river hills and valleys. The steep river valleys are a mixture of dense greenery, worn basalt rock formations, and dark dank caves. Werner was kind enough to drive us to the top of a lovely walk though the hilltops and fields full of yellow plants whose destiny is to become canola oil, endless rows of oats, and woods so dense our heads were covered in thatch.

The Franconian Alps must be a hard place to live in the winter. What wasn’t planted for crops was carefully harvested for firewood. We even saw rows over 100 yards long of logs stacked 40 inches wide, 10 feet high, and covered with various kinds of roofing material. At one point, we stopped in front of what looked like a national forest type sign describing the terrain and rules of the park including which flowers are verboten to pick. Surrounding the signs on all sides were rows upon rows of firewood. Don’t pick the wild flowers but please harvest the wood.

At the bottom of the trail was a crystal clear creek, dotted with toy waterwheels and small cottages. Werner drove the car down to meet us, carefully provisioned with food, drink, and a welcome picnic table beside the creek. Next to the table was a series of arm rests protruding out of and in the creek. Werner explained that this was for people to soak their feet by carefully walking in the creek after they hike. After you have frozen your feet in the alpine waters, above the picnic table on the sloping hillside was a manmade pool of water with a bench sticking out of the center. Water is slowly pumped into the pool, warmed a bit by solar, all this in an effort to start a slow foot thaw.

On our walk out of the narrow valley we witnessed homes and barns built into overhanging rock ledges. The rock faces above, literally drooping over the roofs, seemingly using the buildings for support. The drive home was uneventful except for a stop at a town that has a famous church, a quick stop for those on pilgrimages. There was a relic at the church encased in glass with Mary, but I never did figure out what the relic was. I suppose it was only a one star relic. The plaster work and colors were a delight rather like a combination of Donald Trump and Martha Stewart design. Oddly, the town is just filled with gem, mineral, fossil, and jewelry schmucks. There must be more going on in those caves than I thought.

Dinner was another hit. One meat course is Ursula’s favorite dish when she visits. I’ve put a copy on the slideshow for her in particular. (Ursula, are you out there in cyber space?)

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